How to Make Wood Countertops... out of Plywood!

9 coats of varnish urethane

does this look like plywood?

It actually is! I've included different steps and tips that I took along the way. This countertop project took me about two months to complete beginning to end. I opted for wood instead of formica, granite, or marble because I needed to save a few hundred dollars. I wanted to try to create a butcher block or bar top appearance without making the kitchen look cheap. 

Patience is necessary when doing a home remodeling project by yourself instead of paying someone double of what it costs. It'll look great in the end, and you'll be incredibly proud of yourself!

Step 1:  Trace your Design on the Plywood

counters without side trim or conditioner

Try to maximize the amount of wood that you want to use so you waste the least amount possible. Take a large piece of paper, use a utility knife to trace and cut the current design, and then transfer that onto your plywood. You could learn from my mistakes. Be sure to wear gloves because it's hard to work daily with cut-up hands. 

Step 2:  Cut and Adhere the Plywood

You can use a handheld jigsaw to cut out the sink design. I used heavy duty Liquid Nails (the blue and gold container) to adhere the wood to the existing countertops. I could have taken the old countertops off, but I figured that it'd be sturdier with it on. In the picture you can see that I hadn't put on the backsplash yet. 

Step 3:  Prepping the Wood

one coat of pre-stain wood conditioner

It's critical to consider the size of your kitchen when considering what colors to choose. Because I have a small kitchen and want to create a facade of a larger, more open kitchen, I opted for a lighter palette. For the counters, I needed to create a color that presented itself in the lightest manner without appearing painted or stained; I wanted it to look all natural. 

Things You'll Need:

• rags for wiping pre-stain or stain
• pre-stain wood conditioner
• urethane varnish 
• brush cleaner or mineral spirits
• an old can to pour brush cleaner in
• a natural or soft-bristle brush 

Tip: Save your Scraps!

I tested a variety of Minwax color options on a scrap piece of the plywood. All of the color options seemed so dark and would have made my kitchen look smaller, so I literally didn't choose a stain color. I only chose to wipe on Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner. Initially I was going to create a striped butcher block appearance, but after I tried the stains on the wood, I noticed that the grain of the wood didn't accept the stain in a straight line, so I eliminated that option. The picture shows the sample board on top of the final product (1 coat of pre-stain with 9 coats of urethane varnish).  

"golden oak" wood filler used to fill in gaps and nail holes

• Use wood filler 
• Match the wood filler color to the color of stain that you anticipate using
• Most wood fillers can be stained 
• Apply wood filler with a wet finger and lightly wet the wood- it goes on much more smoothly
• Wait a day for it to dry and then lightly sand those areas with 180 sandpaper
• Always sand in the direction of the grain of the wood
• Get a lightly dampened rag and wipe the wood down before staining or pre-staining
• If you use stain, you should use pre-stain wood conditioner first to eliminate the appearance of blotchiness when applying the stain with a rag
• You'll have to be sure to clearly fill in all cracks in the wood. That includes where adjoining boards meet and in the nail holes.

Step 4:  Applying Varnish

I chose to use Behlen Rockhard urethane varnish in gloss. I like the satin or matte look better usually, but according to many recommendations, the reviewers claimed that the gloss wears better than the satin.

I highly recommend using Purdy brushes because they are a quality brush. They clean well, rarely lose bristles in your paint or varnish, and they last. There are some ways to skimp on money, but you never skimp on brushes because you'll get less-than-desired results. 

I put on 9 coats of varnish with light sanding in between each coat. I literally wiped my hand across the coat and then with a damp rag wiped the dust off before putting another coat down. This eliminates bumps and creates a smooth surface. Don't skip or forget to sand in between coats-- it really does make a huge difference. I used 320 but you can also use 400-grit sandpaper to do this. 

Costs

• $50 - One sheet of top-grade oak plywood
• $55.00 - 2 quarts of Behlen Rockhard varnish urethane - gloss 
• $5 - Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner (less than a quart will do)
• $6.00 - Wood filler - golden oak or natural color (I used Elmer's that withstood hard sanding)
• $12 - 180 grit sandpaper (to lightly sand wood) and 320 or 400-grit sandpaper (to lightly sand in between coats of varnish)
• $4 - Liquid Nails adhesive (to glue down wood to previous countertop)
• $6 - silicone caulk (waterproof, crack-proof, yellow-ing proof, lifetime guarantee, clear)
• Total= $138

My Initial Goal:  Save a few hundred dollars instead of buying an expensive countertop. Goal achieved!

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact me on my page! Please see my other pages and blogs about how I completed other DIY projects for your kitchen, patio, furniture, and bedrooms. 

About the Author:

Amber Konek is an enthusiastic teacher, coach, and aspiring remodeling enthusiast.